From Bull's Blood to Youngbloods Hungary's Wines: Revolution...Evolution...Revelation

Tasting Notes

Adding to the problems of small production and limited availability, the next wines coming stateside stem from the poor 2001 vintage. Look instead for 1999 and 2000---excellent for both red and Tokaji wines. 2002 was fine for top reds, though difficult in Tokaj, while many producers tout 2003 as a "year of the century."

Gróf Degenfeld

Furmint Tokaji dry 2002 ($10).
Notes of honey, citrus, melon, peach and pear dominate both nose and palate. Clean and balanced, with crisp zesty acids: a fine food wine. Excellent value late-harvest Hárslevelu as well.

Hilltop Neszmély

Cooper's White Olaszrizling 2002 ($8)
Evanescent notes of Rome apple, white peach, almond and mineral characterize this delicately creamy, lightly acidic picnic-perfect treat.

Journeyman's Red Merlot-Kékfrankos Sopron 2002 ($8).
Bright red berry, cherry, plum, currant and vanillin oak aromas that extend to the palate; soft, with nice structure and earthy finish.

Kobrand

Tibor Gál Egri Bikavér 2000 ($14).
Silken yet brawny, like a bodybuilder shaved and oiled for competition. The grapes (40% Kékfrankos, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 15% Syrah, 5% Kadarka) are culled from five leading vineyards. The powerhouse nose features stewed plum, mulberry, blackberry, raspberry and cherry accented by violet, anise, earth, leather and pencil shavings. Ripe fruit, integrated oak and polished, slightly chalky tannins extend to a lengthy finish of bramble, pepper and chocolate-covered cherries.

Tibor Gál Chardonnay 2001 ($13).
This single-vineyard Chard is a savvy compromise between the big buttery "old" New World and lean Burgundian stylings. The shiny brass robe and aromas of vanilla, marzipan, baked apple, pear, praline and butterscotch proclaim wood, while refreshing lemon curd, supple body, good acidity, exceptional balance and minerality on the finish whisper Burgundy.

Monarchia

István Tóth Cellars Egri Bikavér Barrel Selection 1999 ($16).
An intriguing Kékfrankos/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Blauberger blend from a Bikavér master. Gobs of blackberry, Damson plum, blueberry and bing cherry, with a spicy peppery kick prefacing a cocoa/licorice finish. (Tóth's wonderfully harmonious, opulent Merlot and Kékfrankos, produced from small yields on premium sites, also offer superb value at under $20.)

Nyakas Cellars Olivier ($13).
This Buda-Etyek Irsai Olivér defines refreshing: briskly acidic with litchi and apricot aromas yielding to lemon zest, key lime and white stone fruits on the palate.

Hetszólo Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos ($65, 500ml).
Made from 100% Hárslevelu[//], this is refined and restrained, with dried apricot, orange peel, white peach and quince commingling with toasted almond, macadamia and lilac. Beautiful zingy acidic structure.

Vylyan Winery Evolution 2000 ($22).
Zweigelt, Kékoporto, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot produce what the Debreczenis call their "non-Bordeaux Bordeaux." Black fruits (currant, berry, cherry, prune), pepper and espresso boost the bouquet; well-integrated, firm tannins spiral around the massive fruit.

Monarchia Gold Selection

Pok-Polonyi Pince Rhapsody in Red 1999 ($35).
Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Kékfrankos from Eger in equal proportions produce a deep purple beauty bursting with plum, black cherry, currant, cedar, raspberry, white pepper, licorice, menthol and subtly oak-driven fudge swirl. The caressing texture is perfectly countered by racy acidity. Great finesse and structure, but consider Pok's fine Egri Cuvée and Bikavérs for half the price.

Ferenc Takler Kékfrankos Barrique 2000 ($33).
Succulent, right from the lovely deep garnet robe. The complex nose layers blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, tobacco, earth, chocolate, caramel, violet, maple, spice and pepper, with ripe berry, sour cherry, dark chocolate and pepper lingering on the palate. Proof that Kékfrankos can make a world-class wine in Szekszárd.

Takler Regnum Cuvée 2000 ($70).
The Red Sox and Yanks would covet a heavy hitter this powerful and compact. Still young and closed, but potentially Hungary's finest Bordeaux blend (55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc). Dense yet harmonious, with raspberry, blackcurrant, plum, cranberry, olive, sage, anise, soy and mocha predominating: a fruit bomb with a long, complex fuse.

Zoltán Demeter Cellars Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos 1999 ($200, 500ml)
661 bottles of liquid Viagra” from the finest Tokaj vintage since Communism. Textbook polished brass hue; sensuous aromas and flavors of clover, honeysuckle, peach, smoke, Meyer lemon, quince, apricot, coconut, chestnut, hazelnut, pear and exotic wisps of sandalwood, clove and cherry tobacco; perfectly pitched acidity. Demeter also produces excellent late harvest wines---and seek out his Királyudvar efforts with István Szepsy.

Vivamus

Sárfehér/White Mud 2000 ($140--$210).
Rare varietal exhibiting extraordinary complexity and concentration. The nose features honeysuckle, candied walnut, fresh apple, Anjou pear and petrol; green and Fuji apple, smoked almond, white peach, caramel, lemon zest and mineral perk the palate; the slinky body finishes with bracing acidity accented by mace, basil, toasted sesame, white pepper and ash.

--Jordan Simon

Product Review:
"An Inquisitive Wine Game with a Strategic Finish"