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From Bull's Blood to Youngbloods Hungary's Wines: Revolution...Evolution...Revelation

Story: Jordan Simon

Hungarian Glossary

Aszú: dessicated, raisined, referring to botrytized dessert wine
Bor: wine
Borkostolás: wine tasting shop
Bormester: sommelier
Borozó: wine bar
Csárda: tavern
Étterem: fine restaurant
Étlap: menu
Különleges: special quality (seen on labels)
Minosegi: quality (seen on labels)
Palack: bottle
Pálinka: brandy distilled from fruit or grape must (Törköly)
Panzió: Pension or guesthouse
Pince: cellar
Pogácsa: cheese scone served with wine
Preshaz: press house
Puttony(os): wooden hod carrying 25 kilos of Aszú grapes, used as unit of sugar/quality measurement
Sörözo: pub
Szolo: grapes, vineyard
Tár/Út/Útca: avenue, road, street
Válogatás: selection (similar to reserve)
Vendáglo: another term for fine Restaurant

Hungarian Wine Glossary

White
Cserszegi Fžszeres: Fragrant, spicy hybrid of Irsai Olivár (itself a cross) and Gewürztraminer. Best in Etyek-Buda, Ászár-Neszmály, Balatonmelláke Fehárszolo: Ancient grape once used in Tokaji. Devastated by phylloxera, but some roots remain. Government recommended propagation in 1998
Furmint: Principle grape in Tokaj, also makes fine dry wines. Floral, fiery, spicy, high acidity. Best in Tokaj, also Somló
Hárslevelu: Second grape of Tokaj (also dry versions); translates to linden leaf; highly aromatic, spicy, acidic, full-bodied. Best in Tokaj, also Somló, Siklós
Irsai Olivár: Hybrid of Pearl of Csaba and Pozsony, noted for early reliable ripening, deeply aromatic. Best in Azsár-Neszmály, Etyek-Buda, Pannonhalma Juhfark: Translated as Sheep's Tail, increasingly rare, known for high acidity, fragrance and aging potential. Best in Somló, Balatonfüred
Káknyelu: Translated as Blue Stem (for the unique hue), very rare, single-sexed flower making it difficult to grow and low yielding; complex bouquet, lively acids. Best in Badacsony
Királyleányka: Originated in Transylvania (while part of Hungary), translated as Princess; a cross producing Muscat-like bouquet, full body, light acidity. Best in Eger, Ászár-Neszmály, Pannonhalma
Leányka: Grown throughout Romania and Hungary. Vigorous growth, pleasant bouquet, medium acidity. Best in Eger, Mór
Sárfehár: Translates as White Mud (echoing the soil it favors), very rare, intensely perfumed. Best in Somló
Záta (fka Oremus): 1951 cross between Furmint and Bouvier, approved for Tokaji in 1990, ripens much earlier than Furmint (4-6 weeks)
Red
Kákfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch, Limberger): Origin unknown, very popular in Austria, high acidity, good tannin, deep color, peppery taste. Adapts well to various conditions and grown all over Hungary, excellent rosás as well. Best: Szekszárd, Sopron, Eger, Villány
Kákoportó (aka Blauer Portugieser, not related to Portugal's Port varieties): Prolific, hardy, in Hungary shows deep color, smooth tannins, good aging potential. Will have to change name due to EU concessions. Best: Villány, Eger, Szekszárd
Kadarka: Hungary's most famous red, nearly eradicated by Communists, making a comeback, especially in traditional Bikavárs; vigorous but prone to various rots and ripens dangerously late. Also responds well to botrytis, creating dessert wines. Light smooth tannins, good acidity, intense red fruit/spicy aromas and flavors. Best: Szekszárd

MAJOR INTERNATIONAL VARIETALS:

Red
Cabernet Franc: best in Szekszárd, Villány
Cabernet Sauvignon: best in Villány, Szekszárd
Merlot: best in Szekszárd, Villány
Pinot Noir: best in Villány, Eger
Zweigelt (Austrian grape with good tannic structure): best in Villány, Eger, Szekszárd
White
Chardonnay: best in Eger, Mátraalja, Etyek-Buda
Muscat Lunel (aka Sárga Muskotály): Third grape of Tokaj
Muscat Ottonel: lightest in color and aroma of the family; best in Eger, Mátraalja, Balatonboglár
Pinot Gris (aka Szürkebarát): best in Badacsony, Balaton, Mátraalja
Sauvignon Blanc: best in Etyek-Buda, Mátraalja
Welschriesling (aka Olaszrizling, not related to the noble Riesling; planted throughout Central Europe, noted for high acidity and perfume): best in Ászár-Neszmály, Badacsony, Balatonfüred


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